Storm Pax was followed by Storm Quintin. After all the on-hold angst we were re-booked to depart Boston on Sunday for the Virgin Islands. Judd, being the new bookie, got the phone text saying "due to severe weather, your flight has been cancelled." Yes, it happened in the comfort of our living room on Friday night. We weren't already en route to Boston in severe weather. We weren't lazing around Logan Airport at 9pm, looking for a way home. We hopped right back on all the phones/computers to start asking for refunds, canceling hotels and car rentals/dog-sitters. We did this virtually with the Thibodeaus, everyone too exhausted to walk next door and commiserate together THIS TIME. But somewhere around midnight, Judd said, "Want to go to Quebec?" and I said, "YES!" So miraculously, it was still the last two nights of their Winter Carnival and we found an adorable auberge a block from the Frontenac with reasonable rates. (MY suspicion was two folks from North Carolina just had THEIR winter vacation to Canada cancelled by severe down-south Pax and Quintin.) We texted Carol and Omer to repack for a road trip at 7am. It was after midnight.
At 7am when we called and woke them, they were not up for the sudden reversal in latitude. We secured BACK the dog-sitters and hopped in the car.
I had visited Quebec summer 2009 with three kids in tow to meet up with Susanfriend and her husband and twins for the International Fireworks Contest.
http://internationaldesfeuxloto-quebec.com/en/historique/historique.aspx
It had been August, 90 degrees, polar bears wouldn't get out of the water at their aquarium. But this trip, it was February, minus 10 to positive 10 degrees, all the roads and sidewalks covered with layers of snow, ice and slush. We did a good job of re-packing with triple long underwear, the hot-hands packets from the kids' stocking stuffers, hats and hats and hats.
By day, we walked the streets of the Old City and the carnival proper up on the Plains of Abraham. By night, we did it all over again, the ice fortress and snow sculptures all lit up. We downloaded the ap on our phone to follow the parade route. We waited an hour lined up on the curb for the parade. We were okay that we only say the mini-beginningist of the parade and got cold and went back to the hotel.
At dinner at Aux Ancienes Canadienes, described on the travel reviews as, " This restaurant exemplifies traditional French-Canadian, aka cuisine Québécois. This is Not a French restaurant. It is a restaurant showcasing the unique foods of the region. " and "very meatcentric."
Judd ordered the farmers plate and had about 8 kids of meat: meat pie, pig knuckles, foie gras, I can't even say what else. At Le Petit Chateau, we had breakfast crepes the size of my bistro table. Everyone is very polite about letting you practice your baby French and then answering you back in impeccable English.
We shopped for trinkets and when we went to get a friend a cigar the young salesman apologized for stumbling on his English. He couldn't flawlessly come up with words like "distinguish" or "reduce." We told him it was okay -- he was speaking our language for us.
We stayed at Hotel Chateau Bellevue which was just a block from the Hotel Frontenac. Nice window overlooking a park that overlooked the Saint Lawrence. The lobby had an amazing feature where you put in a card and it poured a glass of wine for you.
One highlight was taking the ferry to Levis across the St. Lawrence. Judd was stunned that the water was carry mini-icebergs in one direction part of the day and in the other direction later forgetting that it was tidal water. The ferry took about 20 minutes to get across and another 5 minutes to align itself against the current. Judd was also a big fan of the Musee du Fort - a tiny museum with a ginormous diorama with small theater-seating. You sit and watch the tiny lights go off on various ships and battlegrounds while a slide show plays for 15 minutes. It was very helpful orienting us to the geography (and the history.)
My favorite thing was The Hotel de Glace, not in Old Quebec but 20 minutes outside of town which we visited on our way home. I CAN NOT imagine actually sleeping there, but I sure liked going room to room, each with a theme (Easter Island, Mayans) The overall theme was mythology and they had sculpted snow and ice in other rooms. One entire room was devoted to the Disney movie Frozen (which we have yet to see) and a mom there with her kids sliding around said it was fabulous.
The Ice hotel slide show 1.7 minutes. The whole trip one is long (7min?)--I'm still working on how to edit it.
p.s. Carol helped us re-book while we were gone and we are slated for St. John in April!! Back to a new count down calendar........
